Tag: Amalfi Coast

Honeymoon Recap: Positano

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I realized last week that I never shared our final honeymoon recap with you! In case you missed the first 3, you can find them here:

Napoli
Ischia
Sorrento & Pompeii

I have to admit that I was a little nervous about heading to Positano for the fear that it would be too touristy, similar to Sorrento. However, upon our first sights of Positano during our drive in, my fears were quickly washed away. Although it was still touristy, the charm of Positano was still very much in tact and it just felt less touristy than Sorrento.

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On top of that, we stayed in the most luxurious hotel, which just made everything better, especially after the poor hotel experience we had in Sorrento.

Where We Stayed

We ended up staying at Hotel Villa Franca during our time in Positano. While it was a rather expensive hotel, I’m so glad we splurged on it because it was a wonderful way to end the trip. They ended up upgrading us to their biggest/nicest room and “big” and “nice” really don’t do it any justice. It was the size of a small studio apartment, with a large, luxurious bathroom and amazing jacuzzi tub, a whole sitting area and an oversized terrace overlooking all of Positano. It was in a separate building from the main hotel, but it didn’t prove to be an issue at all since it was only a 30 second walk or so.

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The staff was unbelievably warm, hospitable and helpful- we couldn’t rave enough about how welcomed they made us feel, starting with complimentary champagne upon our arrival.

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We spent a lot of time at their roof deck pool- the lounge chairs were so comfy, the Aperol Spritz’s were absolutely delicious and the bar tenders were very attentive.

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We didn’t end up eating up there, but everything we saw people eating looked delicious. We did indulge at their daily breakfast where they had everything you could ever imagine, including eggs made your way, assortments of breads/cheeses/meats, cereal, yogurt, granola, fresh juices and plenty of bubbly 😉

Our only complaint about the hotel was that it was so far up from the main areas of Postiano- 597 steps, to be exact! While I didn’t mind the steps (obviously), it made it difficult to bounce around and you had to plan ahead for how long you wanted to be down by the beach. They do offer a complimentary shuttle service leaving from the hotel every half hour that brings you down to the beach area which we did take advantage of at night when we would head out for dinner. This was a wonderful service!

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That was our hotel… wayyyy up there!

Where We Ate

Prior to our honeymoon, we received lots of recommendations for lunches/dinners during our time in Positano, which was nice to use as a base. We found some places on our own which also did not disappoint.

  • Ristorante da Costantino– This came recommended to us by the driver who took us from Sorrento to Positano. It’s set up even higher than Hotel Villa Franca, but don’t worry- they have a car service that will pick you up at your hotel and drop you off after, which is a very nice service. While they don’t have outdoor/waterfront space, the front wall of the restaurant is all windows so there are spectacular views- both during the day and at night. We had our driver take us there to make the reservation and the owner was a sweet old Italian man who made us drink an espresso with him after we chatted- it was awesome. It’s a family owned & run restaurant and serves truly authentic (non-americanized touristy) Italian food. It was such a great way to kick off our last part of the trip.

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  • Chez Black– This was a recommended restaurant, I think because of it’s prime location near the beach. We had a really nice meal there, although it did seem to cater more specifically to Americans and other tourists. We would still recommend it!

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  • Ristorante Max– This was another highly recommended restaurant to try out (3 separate people told us about it!). We loved our meal here- everything was so flavorful and the wine was ridiculously good! We sat outside and got to play with a neighborhood cat, which I obviously loved!

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  • Ristorante Saraceno d’Oro– We had big plans of doing up our last night in Positano big, but it ended up raining, so we opted to keep it closer to our hotel. We ended up at this restaurant which ended up being an awesome find. The food was very good and very authentic- I had the eggplant and it was as good as RM’s mother’s- which is saying a lot!

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  • Sandwiches- One day we were really craving a basic sandwich & chips type of lunch so we asked a jewelry vendor if he knew of any Salumeria’s in the area (deli type stores) and luckily there was one nearby. The sandwich was SO good we ended up there at least one or two more times. There’s something so great about a simple sandwich made with incredibly fresh ingredients.

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  • Caffe Positano– Friends also recommended this place, and since it ended up being exactly halfway down the cliffs from our hotel to the beach, we saddled up there for lunch one day. The views were spectacular and the food was also really delicious. We got a platter type of plate with all sorts of amazing options- we definitely recommend checking this place out!

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What To Do

  • Walk around and window-shop/pop into stores. There are so many cute little stores selling beautiful things, especially the linen clothes items! I’ll warn you, though, the shops are expensive! We laughed because RM would see something he thought I’d look good in so I’d check it out and be appalled at the price tags- usually upwards of 200-300 euros! That said, everything was really beautiful!

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  • Have drinks at Hotel Villa Franca- Although these were expensive (25 euros for a glass of bubbly!), the ambiance of the drink area and the views were worth it. Plus, they gave awesome “snacks”- my favorite 😉

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  • Check out the beaches- We were warned in advance that the beaches were not sandy, so we weren’t totally surprised to find a rocky beach. The rocks were surprisingly pretty comfortable to relax on, and the water was so refreshing! What made it even better was that you could get “to go” drinks from nearby bars/restaurants- Spritz’s on the beach are the best!

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  • Get handmade sandals- We’d heard that you could get handmade sandals in Positano, and people were right- there were so many little stores selling homemade sandals. We ended up at Creazioni Nana which was next door to Caffe Positano, and I was so happy with how my sandals turned out!! It was such a special memory to take home with me!
  • Rent a scooter– RM finally persuaded me to rent a scooter and drive out to Amalfi and Ravello and although I was scared sh*tless about the whole experience, it ended up being one of the best experiences/memories from the trip. We had an absolute blast!!

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You can also take the ferry to Capri, do cooking classes, etc., but we opted to just soak in the hotel and things around us.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, we absolutely fell in love with Positano! So much so, that RM said for our 3rd wedding anniversary we need to go back- I’m certainly not going to complain (or forget) about that! This was the last of our honeymoon recaps- I hope you’ve enjoyed them, and maybe they’ll be helpful if you decide to visit the Amalfi Coast!

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Honeymoon Recap: Sorrento & Pompeii

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Part 3 of our trip was spent in Sorrento, which we got to from Ischia by another hydrofoil ride. We were so sad to leave Ischia, but were also excited to see more parts of the Amalfi Coast. I’ll be honest when I say that Sorrento was not our favorite part of the trip- not because it wasn’t beautiful, but moreso because it was a bit of a culture shock after coming from Ischia. Everything felt super touristy and way too Americanized- or catering too much to Americans. No one spoke Italian to us, even when RM would initiate the conversation in Italian.

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We also decided to skimp on the hotel a bit, which was a big mistake because our hotel (Hotel Eden) really left something to be desired, especially after having come from such a gorgeous, spacious hotel. Our travel agent warned us that it was only a 3 star, but we went ahead with it anyway with the plan that we would only be sleeping there. Unfortunately, RM was really sick for most of our 3 days in Sorrento so he/we spent more time in the room than anticipated and we were kicking ourselves for not getting a nicer hotel!

In hindsight, we should’ve just done a day trip to Sorrento since there isn’t really a ton to do/see there and everything you would want to see could be easily done in a day trip. That said, we really enjoyed the food there and ended up finding less touristy things to do so it turned out being all good. Plus, we were able to get to Pompeii really easily and that was incredible.

Where we stayed

As I mentioned, we stayed at Hotel Eden. Even though it needed some serious upgrades in parts of the hotel, it was in a really perfect location- walking distance from the major Piazza’s, restaurants, cafes, etc., which was ideal. They did have a pool which was a nice addition!

What we ate

Every meal we had in Sorrento was wonderful- there wasn’t a meal that we any complaints about!

  • Fauno Bar– This is probably the biggest restaurant in Piazza Tasso (main Piazza in Sorrento) and has been around for a super long time. We were starving when we first got to the city so we popped in there and had a nice lunch.

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  • Trattoria Da Emilia– Once we decided to open our Rick Steves book, we learned about Marina Grande, an area on the water in the lower part of Sorrento, a bit of a walk from Piazza Tasso. We fell in love with this area because it was quieter and more authentic feeling, and the recommendation to go to this restaurant did not disappoint! The food was really wonderful and I tried lots of fish that I normally wouldn’t, but they way they lightly fry things makes it hard to not be good 😉

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  • L’abate– We were not in the mood for walking a lot and ended up choosing this restaurant which was right in the heart of Piazza Sant’Antonino. We loved everything about the experience- the food was really good, the atmosphere was great and there was awesome people watching.

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  • We had another great meal at a restaurant off the beaten path but I cannot remember what it was called, so pictures will have to do it justice!

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What to do

  • Walk around all of the small streets- there were so many little side streets, lined with shops, restaurants and cafes. While these streets were BUSY, it was cool to check them out.
  • Marina Grande- Make the walk to go down there because there are lots of great restaurants and cafes and it’s a bit quieter than up in the main piazzas.

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  • Rent a chair at the “beach”- Sorrento doesn’t really have traditional style beaches, but they have these boardwalks lined with chairs that you can rent. Rentals come along with the use of their bathrooms, wait staff and access to the swimming areas. The water was amazing- crystal clear and perfect temp! We spent an afternoon doing this and it was awesome. We went to Marameo and it was well worth the 10 euros each because we spent hours there, had drinks and a really awesome sandwich. It was such a relaxing afternoon!

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  • Take the train to Pompeii- This was one of our favorite memories from the trip because it was really surreal to think about HOW OLD everything was. We took the train (1.20 euros each way! Very cheap) and it was really easy to get to since it was a stop on the train route. Tickets to Pompeii were 12 euros each (I think), which did not include any guidance. You can rent headsets or hire a guide, but we did ok with just the Rick Steves book/his guide… and listening in on other people’s tours 😉 While we stayed for around 3 hours, we could’ve stayed for much longer because there is so much to see! To summarize better, I’ll share blurps along with the photos- enjoy!

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Mount Vesuvius in the background.

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Did you know prostitution is the oldest profession? Even in 30 BC it was a prominent part of the lifestyle. They had a whole house dedicated to it and this was one of the rooms- the concrete beds & pillows look so comfy 😉 along the top of the walls they had the “menu” of services provided. It was an interesting thing to check out!

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This is a picture of me in the “fast food” shop. It was located across the street from one of the bath houses and since the houses people lived in were so small, many chose to order food instead. This was so neat to imagine.

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This was me in a house- seriously so cool!

And that does it for out Sorrento visit. By the time the end of this part of the trip was coming to a close, we were really starting to like Sorrento a lot more than our original impression, which was a nice way to leave the city. And don’t get me wrong- Sorrento really was beautiful, we just felt as though it lost some of its charm because of how touristy it has become. That, and we would suggest doing just a day or one night there rather than 3… and don’t cheap out on the hotel- ever 😉

Questions for you:Have you ever visited a city for longer than you felt necessary? Do you tend to splurge or skimp on hotels? 

Honeymoon Recap: Ischia

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In the first honeymoon recap, I told you about our time in Napoli, which we loved! Today, I’m talking about the second part of our trip spent on an island off the coast of Napoli called Ischia. Ischia was not a place I had ever heard of, nor had most people when I mentioned it to them, but it came highly recommended to us by RM’s sister and her fiance so I had a feeling it would be great. And within 5 minutes on the island, we realized that great didn’t even begin to describe it.

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We were able to get to Ischia from Napoli by a short hydrofoil (ferry) ride- about an hour-hour and a half, I think (I slept the whole way so I don’t remember ;)). There are many different parts of the island that you an stay on, but we opted for Ischia Ponte, which was a short drive from Ischia Porto where the boats come in, because of the better hotel options (more on that below).

What we loved the most about the island was how un-Americanized it was. There were very few other American tourists on the island, and most of the tourists were Italians themselves, so RM’s ability to speak and communicate in Italian was a huge help! We also loved the vibe of the island- it was small and very friendly and we constantly felt like we were able to immerse ourselves right into their culture and lifestyle. The island also had a lot to offer, so we found ourselves running out of time to do everything we wanted to do, even with spending 4 nights there!

Lastly, before I get into the details, if you’re looking to get TONS of information about all things Ischia, we cannot recommend Dion, the writer behind the website Ischia Review, enough. His website has everything you’d ever need/want to know about Ischia: where to stay, what to do, hundreds of restaurant listings, connections to rent boats or cars, winery information and more. We emailed him a lot and he was always super helpful with his responses and suggestions. Without his help we wouldn’t have had the same experience that we did, so Dion, THANK YOU!!

Where we stayed:

We stayed at the stunningly beautiful Miramare e Castello hotel, which was right on the water so we had a private beach and a private pool- the best of both worlds! Walking into the hotel we were greeted by the warmest front-desk staff, who were always there for whatever we needed. Our room was also wonderful- a nice, big bed, little sitting area and an gorgeous terrace with a day bed overlooking the water, Mount Vesuvius and the castle. They had some bubbly and snacks for us upon arrival as a sweet honeymoon gesture- both things are sure ways into my heart 🙂

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The hotel also had an indoor pool and a spa, both of which we did not get a chance to experience, but we were able to check out their rooftop area with a few jet tubs, day beds, etc. The views were the best part, though!

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While we did not eat dinner or lunch there, the breakfast included in our stay was pretty great! They had scrambled eggs/bacon, lots of cured meats and cheeses, yogurts, fruit granola, cereal and a TON of delicious pastries. Complimentary champagne was also provided, but was not something I ended up taking advantage of.

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Miramare’s sister hotel, Mareblu Terme, is right behind Miramare and guests have access to their amenities, including their thermal pool, which is a pool containing thermal water that comes naturally from the ground. On the other side of the island (Forio), all of the hotels have their own thermal spa’s.

What we ate

We ate some really amazing food while in Ischia, starting with our first lunch at a little place near the castle (side note: we never actually went in or toured the castle- oops!- but if we go back (which we really want to do!), we definitely will because it looked really cool.

  • Al Pontile– We were pleasantly surprised by the food here. Sometimes restaurants near big attractions don’t have the best food, but this place did not fit that stereotype at all! We got a few different things and everything was unbelievably good. We even said that the eggplant dish might be tied with how good RM’s mother’s eggplant is, which is a pretty big deal!

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  • Aglio, Olio e Pomodoro– We stumbled upon this restaurant on a cute little street not far from our hotel (it’s the street that leads to the castle). It was the only rainy night we had but luckily we were able to wait for a table at a nearby shop and had a glass of wine. The food at this restaurant was really good, even though RM meant to order pasta with clams and accidentally ordered pasta with mussels haha good thing we like both of them!
  • Ristorante Zi Nannina– Our hotel recommended this restaurant and while it was a bit hard to find, it was a really great dinner spot. It was right on the water and the food was incredible, as was the service. We shared a bunch of things: salad, pasta with shellfish, a seafood stew type of dish and wine. Plus, it lead us to a great strip of restaurants/nightlife/shops in Ischia Porto so that’s an extra plus.

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  • Ristorante Pizzeria La Terrazza– This was a cute restaurant on the second level of a building, so you had great views of the street below. We didn’t end up getting pizza here, but it did look delicious! We opted for more pasta and clams (obsessed, you could say), broccoli rabbe and homemade sausage- everything was great!

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  • I can’t remember the name of the last place, but it might have been Ristorante La Riva Destra or Ristorante L’Ostricaro, based on the Ischia Review page of Ischia Porto restaurants 😉 Whatever one it was, I had nice bolognese and RM had a steak.

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  • Gran Caffe Vittoria– we grabbed after dinner gelato’s and cafe (for RM) here a few nights. It’s hard to miss since it pretty much takes up an entire square!

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I know it seems like we at a ton of pasta- which we did- but we always made sure to have at least one salad throughout the day to make sure we were getting veggies in. We also split meals so that we were not eating the full portion because that’s just not necessary to do on a daily basis! Most places would split the dish for us in the kitchen which was a nice gesture.

What to do

As I said, there was so much to do on the island! Here’s a glimpse into our trip.

  • Lounged at the hotel- Most mornings we would have breakfast and then hang out on the chairs at the hotel and maybe go for a swim. It was nice to ease into this day this way.

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  • Go running- there was a big park that I ran through, as well as just running the streets. Italy gets going a lot later than Americans do so it generally wasn’t very busy when I would do this.

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  • Rent a car & tour the island- Through Ischia review, we rented the cutest (and smallest) smart car cabriolet. This was such a great idea because it allowed us to easily tour around the island. One day we headed out and made various stops along the way, including lunch in Forio, which is on the opposite side of the island and is better known for its beaches than Ischia Ponte. We didn’t think it would take that long to go all the way around the island but the road was SUPER windy and they climbed all the way up the island, which was pretty intense, so it took over an hour. The views were so beautiful, though, so it was worth it.

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  • Rent a boat- we rented a boat through Ischia Review, but ended up canceling it since we wanted to spend the day at Poseidon instead. However, this would’ve been a fun thing to do. They had options to drive the boat yourself or to hire a skipper for the day.
  • Horseback riding- we didn’t do this, but if it’s your thing there are places to do this!
  • Wine tours- There are a bunch of little, family owned & run wineries on the island and while we were there, there was an event called Andar per Cantine, which was an organized winery tour visiting 3-4 different wineries. This ended up being a really fun way to spend the afternoon because we were able to visit some cool little wineries, meet other Americans and taste great wines and locally made foods.

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  • Thermal Spas- Due to the nature of the island, there are lots of thermal Spas to check out. We decided to spend the day at Poseidon, which is the largest thermal spa on Ischia and has over 20 thermal pools to experience. It was 34 euros to get in, but that gives you access to the whole place for the day, including all the pools, locker rooms, restaurants, private beach and more. Because of various properties/minerals in the water (magnesium, calcium, etc.) from the volcanic hot springs, they are supposed to be therapeutic and the pools vary in temperature (from 28* celcius to 40* celcius) and salt concentration so people can pick what pools they want/need based on their bodies. We opted to do a full circuit, starting with the natural sauna, which was really awesome because it was heated naturally from the ground. It was HOT and steamy, unlike anything we’ve ever experienced in a man-made sauna. From there we did a few rotations of the sauna and a cold dip into the 15* celcius pool- which was SO COLD!!! Then, we made our way to dip in all of the other pools, finishing with the hottest and then lounging by the ocean. We had to wear swim caps because they don’t want hair clogging the drains, which was a funny look for sure. They also had natural “jet” type of setups, which were great for tired shoulders. The whole experience was SO NEAT and we would highly recommend it to anyone who goes to the island. We laughed at how organized it was since Italians don’t tend to be organized like that… and then we learned it was run by Germans, and it all made sense! Check out their site for way more information on all they have to offer, as well as more details about where the water comes from as well as it’s healing properties.

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And that about does it for Ischia! As you can see, it was a pretty amazing part of the trip and we would really love to get back there some day. Next up, Sorrento!

 Questions for you: Have you ever been to Ischia? Do you like spas/saunas? Do you prefer a full schedule/itinerary on vacation or do you like to plan as you go?

Honeymoon Recap: Napoli

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Good morning!n No “Five on Friday” for you today, but I think you’ll like this post! Now that the wedding recaps are complete, I can blog about our honeymoon! To sum it up, it was the most amazingly wonderful two weeks we could’ve ever asked for. It was our third time to Italy (2nd together), and I swear- it gets more and more special every time I visit.  We especially loved this trip because we got to explore the Amalfi Coast, which is even more beautiful in person than it is in pictures. Our itinerary was: Naples for 2 nights, Ischia for 4 nights, Sorrento for 3 nights, Positano for 4 nights and then 1 more night in Naples to be closer to the airport for our flight home. I’ll break the recap posts into each area that we visited, making sure to share what we did, where we stayed, what we ate (and where we ate where I can remember!), suggestions, etc.

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Where We Stayed:

For the first Naples stop, we stayed at the Renassaince Naples, which we really loved. It was a nice, clean hotel with decent size rooms, it had a great breakfast with beautiful views and most importantly, it was SUPER close to everything you’d want or need. We could literally walk out and be in various piazza’s in just a short walk. We were also surprised by a Luna di Miele gift (we assume it was organized by our travel agent: Coleen at Simply Honeymoons), which was a great way to be welcomed to the city!

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The hotel also had a small gym, which I used just once.

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For our last night in Naples at the end of our trip, our travel agent opted to put us at Grand Hotel Parker’s, and while it was a BEAUTIFUL hotel (very luxurious) with amazing views, we felt as though it was a bit too far out of the way for our liking. When we got there on Sunday afternoon, we were starving so we headed out to find food and had to walk and walk and walk in order to find anything. Granted, it was a Sunday and a lot of things are closed on Sundays, but still. It didn’t seem like it was a highly populated area of nearby piazza’s, cafes, etc., which was not the case with the Renaissance that we first stayed in. So, if your thing is views moreso than proximity to the action, then this is certainly the hotel for you because it was really, really nice and had wonderful views. Plus, our room was so great- it was 2 floors with 2 bathrooms! It was almost like a little apartment 🙂

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What We Ate

I sent my parents a copy of the itinerary I created and they were laughing when they saw “eat pizza” on the list of “things to do” in Naples 😉 But the pizza in Napoli really is unlike anything we’ve ever had before. It was simply unbelievable. So basic, but so delicious! And cheap! 3 euros for a pizza- can’t get much better than that.

  • Aperol Spritz- These are the best thing ever! Paired with the “snacks” that cafes give you when you order drinks, it made for a perfect afternoon pickmeup.

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  • Cafe & Sfogliatelle at Gran Caffe Gambrinus, which is a well-known, very historic cafe in Naples. The sfogliatelle there were amazing!! If you don’t know what they are- google it, find an Italian bakery and get one. You won’t regret it!

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  • Pizza at Di Matteo. Tribunali Street is THE street to get pizza if you’re in Naples. If the line at Di Matteo is too long, there are at least a handful of other well-known, delicious places to choose from. We grabbed beers at the store next door, ordered a pizza and found a stoop to eat it on. It was amazing- and the pizza was only 3 euros- heck of a cheap date 😉

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  • Lunch at Attori & Spettatori– We had been walking and walking and walking and finally stumbled upon this restaurant, which had everything we were looking for: drinks, food, outdoor seating, quiet area. We opted to get a piazza fritta, which is a “fried pizza”, a staple Naples is known for. It’s basically a calzone that’s been fried and while it’s good, we preferred the traditional pizza. This restaurant was great, though!

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  • Dinner at II Garum Ristorante– this was suggested by the hotel and it did not disappoint! We didn’t make reservations so we couldn’t eat outside, but the inside was warm and charming so it was great. We shared a few apps, but the star was the special of the night, which was a lobster tail pasta dish. SO good!

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  • Gelato- duh! I don’t remember the exact places, but everywhere we got one was great.

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What We Did

  • LOTS of walking around, checking out the various piazzas.
  • Tour “Naples Underground”- this was a really interesting part of our trip because we didn’t know that it even existed! From their site: Forty meters below the characteristic and lively streets of the Historic Center of Naples, you find a different world, unexplored, isolated by time, but deeply connected with the world above. It’s the heart of Naples, and the place from which the city was born. To visit it is to travel to the past, a world 2400 years old.Every historic epic, from the foundation of Neopolis, to the bombs of WWII, has left it’s mark on the walls of the yellow tufa stone, the soul of Naples, and the stone with which the city was built. Naples Underground is the most famous and fascinating guided tour underneath the city of Naples. Our guides will take you on a journey through 2,400 years of history, from the ancient Greeks to modern times, unveiling the “womb” of Naples from an archaeological, historical, anthropological and geological point of view.. Head on over to their site to learn more- I know my explanation won’t do it justice!
  • Walk around & explore small streets & churches- Italy is FULL of both of these things and we really enjoyed just wandering and stumbling upon both.

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  • Archaeological Museum- We didn’t get a chance to visit this, but I would’ve liked to have because it sounded amazing. They had lots of original pieces from Pompeii which would’ve been cool to see.
  • Eat pizza 😉 And mozzarella… no, seriously. Throughout the whole trip we couldn’t stop raving about how GOOD the mozzarella was. It was so creamy and fresh and flavorful- unlike anything we’ve ever had in the states!

Would we go back?

Absolutely!! While we had received words of caution before going (ie: hold your bag tight, leave your ring in the safe, etc.), we didn’t feel nervous or in danger at any point during our trip. Sure, there were a few homeless people asking for money and the city felt a little dirty, but nothing you wouldn’t get from any other city. Overall, we really loved Napoli and would totally go back!

Questions for you: Have you ever been to Napoli? What’s your favorite “big city”? Do you prefer fancy/loaded pizzas or more basic? What’s your favorite vacation drink?